How to tell if you are overwatering

Most houseplants that fail in the first few months are not underwatered — they are overwatered, and it can look confusingly similar to the alternative. A wilting plant makes people reach for the watering can, which is often exactly the wrong move.

The two signs worth knowing. Yellowing lower leaves are usually the first sign. If the oldest, lowest leaves on the plant turn yellow and drop while the newer growth still looks fine, the roots are likely sitting in soil that never gets the chance to dry out. The second, more reliable check: push a finger an inch or two into the soil, or lift the pot. If the soil is still damp a full week after the last watering, or the pot feels heavier than it should, water is not draining or evaporating the way it needs to.

Why it happens. Overwatering is rarely about how much water you give a plant in one sitting — it is about how often. A pot with poor drainage, a saucer that holds standing water, or a schedule that does not account for a plant's slower growth over winter can all keep the soil wetter for longer than the roots want.

What to do about it. Check before you water — use the finger test above, and water only when the top inch or two of soil is dry. Not everything on our benches needs the same schedule, which is exactly what the plant matcher on our home page helps you work out. Empty the saucer, since standing water under a pot re-wets the soil from below even if you are careful on top. Repot if it is severe — if leaves are yellowing badly and the soil smells sour, the roots may need fresh, well-draining soil, see our guide to repotting. When in doubt, wait a day. It is much easier to recover a slightly dry plant than a waterlogged one.

If you are not sure whether a plant you are considering wants frequent watering or long dry spells between drinks, our matcher factors your habits in along with your light — it is worth three questions before you choose.